Korean Beauty for Beginners – How to use AHA/BHA

The Korean Beauty for beginners series continues with some informative ingredients posts where we cover the most popular and interesting ingredients which you can find in Korean cosmetics. Let’s start today with AHA & BHA!

Physical VS. Chemical exfoliators

Both AHA & BHA are chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliating products differ from physical exfoliators in the way they scrub off dead skin cells. Physical exfoliating products work on scrubbing away the dead skin cells on top of the skin with ingredients like peach stones and strawberry seeds. Because this causes friction between the ingredients and the skin this might be irritating on sensitive skintypes. Chemical exfoliators work from below the surface of the skin and gently attack the dead skin cells with active ingredients.

What is AHA?

Alpha Hydroxy Acid is a water soluble chemical exfoliant which treats dry, dull and patchy skin. AHA dissolves the binding material that holds together dead skin cells making room for new skin cells to reach the surface of the skin. It’s easier for your other skincare products to soak into the skin when your dead skin cells are replaced by fresh new cells. AHA also has humectant properties which simply means it locks in the moisture on your skin.

So what results will I see?

As you probably guessed already new skin cells make your skin appear brighter, less dull and even out the complexion. Clear skin aside, AHA is known to thicken the epidermis (upper skin layer) and increase the collagen production. If you like plump looking skin and want to tackle any (premature) wrinkles you must maintain the collagen balance of your skin.

How can I find an AHA product?

If you read product labels you might not even know there’s AHA inside of your skincare products. This is because there are different types of AHA which all have different benefits. We created a list of the most common ones below:

  • Glycolic Acid: most popular and most common AHA because of it’s small molecular size. This means that it can easily penetrate into your skin and do it’s job. However, it can also mean it can easily irritate your skin if you use to much. Start out with a lower percentage (-10%) of glycolic acid and use every three days.
  • Lactic Acid: second most common AHA. This active ingredient is derived from milk and great for tackling redness. People with Rosecea or sensitive skin in general will benefit the most from this AHA. It’s molecular size is bigger than the size of Glycolic Acid but not as big as with Mandelic Acid.
  • Mandelic Acid: great for acne prone skin because of it’s anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties. Because it’s molecular size is the biggest of all of these AHA’s it takes longer to get into action but it makes it less irritating.

BHA

BHA (short for Beta Hydroxy Acid) is an exfoliant which is known as the ‘pore care’ master. It is most effective for acne prone and oily skintypes since it’s an oil soluble active. It sinks into the pores deeply and de-clutters the pores from any accumulated dirt. The most used and well known BHA is salicylic acid.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is derived from salicin which makes it unsuitable for people with aspirin allergy (sorry). This active is known for it’s anti-inflammatory effect which makes it great for calming inflamed skin. Because of this effect salicylic acid is a common ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos too! Salicylic acid has all the great benefits of AHA like brightening, firming and increasing the collagen production. However Salicilyc Acid doesn’t posses any humectant ingredients like AHA. Because of this it can make the skin dryer which makes it unsuitable for dry skin. However, it’s still way more gentle then other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide.

 

How to apply AHA / BHA

With different active ingredients you have to layer them correctly into your skincare routine. Unless you are a skincare pro we recommend staying with one active at a time. This also includes vitamin C and other active ingredients. Because AHA can cause photo sensitivity we recommend to apply AHA only in your nighttime skincare routine. Even though it hasn’t been proven yet if BHA causes photo sensitivity or not, we recommend applying it in your evening routine only just to be sure. When you do want to apply AHA / BHA in your morning routine never skip your sunscreen! But you are wearing sunscreen already every day right?

Correct order to apply: cleanse ❤ toner ❤ AHA / BHA ❤ essence ❤ serum ❤ moisturizer ❤ mask

Verdict

So in short: choose AHA if you are more of a dry skin type and BHA if you are more of an oily skin type. Have normal or combined skin? Yay, just pick whatever product sounds interesting to you and start gradually adding it into your skincare routine to see how your skin reacts. This should be the procedure for all skintypes though. You don’t need to use AHA or BHA every single day but you can adjust it to your skin’s needs.

Review 

If you are interested you can read Sugarmew’s verdict on the popular Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid here!

http://www.sugarmew.com/2017/01/cosrx-bha-blackhead-power-liquid-review.html

 

Hope this was helpful!

Love, Ichigo

4 thoughts on “Korean Beauty for Beginners – How to use AHA/BHA

  1. Matilde says:

    Hi! I’ve been using BHA and AHA for a while and neither ever caused me irritation before. But the last couple weeks, both irritated my skin. The only thing that changed in my skincare routine is my cleanser. The one i have now does have some irritants in it. What cleansers would you recommend to use in a routine with CosrX 7% AHA and CosrX 4% BHA. Would the CosrX low ph gel cleanser work?

    • shopichigo says:

      Hi Mathilde, I would not suggest the Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel cleanser as that also has salicylic acid in it. You might want to add a moisturizing cleanser in your routine because of your chemical exfoliation. Our personal favorites are the Pure Heals Propolis Foam Cleanser or the Etude House Soon Jung Whip Cleanser 😀

  2. Lainey says:

    Hello! I just recently discovered your blog and I love how informative they are! I used to think that I have a clear understanding on the correct layering of the skincare products that I have but after reading your blog, I’m now a bit baffled. Lol! These are the products I currently have and how I layer them. Please help me check if I’m indeed doing it correctly or not.

    AM:
    1. I just wash my face thoroughly with water in the morning
    2. COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads
    3. Klairs Freshly Juiced Drop Vitamin C
    4. COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-sol (for spot treatment only; normally in T-Zone area)
    5. COSRX Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence
    6. Mizon Skin Recovery Gel Cream (or other moisturizer that I’m trying out)
    7. Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50+

    PM:
    1. Etude house O-LE-MONG Sherbet Cleanser (used only at night time to remove make up & sunscreen)
    2. Hada Labo Whitening Face Wash
    ** I sometimes use Garnier Micellar Water only at night if I’m too tired to do double cleansing.
    3. COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads
    4. COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (used on alternate days with #5)
    5. COSRX AHA Whitehead Power Liquid (used on alternate days with #4)
    6. COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-sol (for spot treatment only; normally in T-Zone area)
    7. COSRX Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence
    8. Mizon Skin Recovery Gel Cream (or other moisturizer that I’m trying out)
    9. Laneige Water Sleeping Mask (2-3x a week) or 10. Face Mask

    ** I also use Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay mask once a week after double cleansing. I go straight to #7 PM routine if I do so.

    Btw, is it safe to use A-sol for the whole face and not just as spot treatment? I know my comment is lengthy but I hope you can find time to respond. Thanks!

    • shopichigo says:

      Hello Lainey, Thank you for dropping by on here! You’ve got a pretty set routine there and seem to understand the layering well no worries! From your post I can’t really tell what your skin type or your skincare goals are however based on the acids the routine looks good but maybe a bit drying? The only two suggestions I would make is adding more moisture and skipping the Cosrx pads in the morning. These pads also contain BHA so I would refrain from using them in the morning and just go straight to the Vitamin C or use a more hydrating toner beforehand like the Etude House Soon Jung Toner. Also, waiting 20 min after applying the vitamin C before applying any other skin care item is the way to go, same for the acids in the evening routine. Please let us know if you have any other questions 😀

      ‘xo Ichigo

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