The Korean Beauty for beginners series continues with some informative ingredients posts where we cover the most popular and interesting ingredients which you can find in Korean cosmetics. Let’s start today with AHA & BHA!
Physical VS. Chemical exfoliators
Both AHA & BHA are chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliating products differ from physical exfoliators in the way they scrub off dead skin cells. Physical exfoliating products work on scrubbing away the dead skin cells on top of the skin with ingredients like peach stones and strawberry seeds. Because this causes friction between the ingredients and the skin this might be irritating on sensitive skintypes. Chemical exfoliators work from below the surface of the skin and gently attack the dead skin cells with active ingredients.
What is AHA?
Alpha Hydroxy Acid is a water soluble chemical exfoliant which treats dry, dull and patchy skin. AHA dissolves the binding material that holds together dead skin cells making room for new skin cells to reach the surface of the skin. It’s easier for your other skincare products to soak into the skin when your dead skin cells are replaced by fresh new cells. AHA also has humectant properties which simply means it locks in the moisture on your skin.
So what results will I see?
As you probably guessed already new skin cells make your skin appear brighter, less dull and even out the complexion. Clear skin aside, AHA is known to thicken the epidermis (upper skin layer) and increase the collagen production. If you like plump looking skin and want to tackle any (premature) wrinkles you must maintain the collagen balance of your skin.
How can I find an AHA product?
If you read product labels you might not even know there’s AHA inside of your skincare products. This is because there are different types of AHA which all have different benefits. We created a list of the most common ones below:
- Glycolic Acid: most popular and most common AHA because of it’s small molecular size. This means that it can easily penetrate into your skin and do it’s job. However, it can also mean it can easily irritate your skin if you use to much. Start out with a lower percentage (-10%) of glycolic acid and use every three days.
- Lactic Acid: second most common AHA. This active ingredient is derived from milk and great for tackling redness. People with Rosecea or sensitive skin in general will benefit the most from this AHA. It’s molecular size is bigger than the size of Glycolic Acid but not as big as with Mandelic Acid.
- Mandelic Acid: great for acne prone skin because of it’s anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties. Because it’s molecular size is the biggest of all of these AHA’s it takes longer to get into action but it makes it less irritating.
BHA (short for Beta Hydroxy Acid) is an exfoliant which is known as the ‘pore care’ master. It is most effective for acne prone and oily skintypes since it’s an oil soluble active. It sinks into the pores deeply and de-clutters the pores from any accumulated dirt. The most used and well known BHA is salicylic acid.
Salicylic Acid is derived from salicin which makes it unsuitable for people with aspirin allergy (sorry). This active is known for it’s anti-inflammatory effect which makes it great for calming inflamed skin. Because of this effect salicylic acid is a common ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos too! Salicylic acid has all the great benefits of AHA like brightening, firming and increasing the collagen production. However Salicilyc Acid doesn’t posses any humectant ingredients like AHA. Because of this it can make the skin dryer which makes it unsuitable for dry skin. However, it’s still way more gentle then other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide.
How to apply AHA / BHA
With different active ingredients you have to layer them correctly into your skincare routine. Unless you are a skincare pro we recommend staying with one active at a time. This also includes vitamin C and other active ingredients. Because AHA can cause photo sensitivity we recommend to apply AHA only in your nighttime skincare routine. Even though it hasn’t been proven yet if BHA causes photo sensitivity or not, we recommend applying it in your evening routine only just to be sure. When you do want to apply AHA / BHA in your morning routine never skip your sunscreen! But you are wearing sunscreen already every day right?
Correct order to apply: cleanse ❤ toner ❤ AHA / BHA ❤ essence ❤ serum ❤ moisturizer ❤ mask
So in short: choose AHA if you are more of a dry skin type and BHA if you are more of an oily skin type. Have normal or combined skin? Yay, just pick whatever product sounds interesting to you and start gradually adding it into your skincare routine to see how your skin reacts. This should be the procedure for all skintypes though. You don’t need to use AHA or BHA every single day but you can adjust it to your skin’s needs.
If you are interested you can read Sugarmew’s verdict on the popular Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid here!
Hope this was helpful!